must wine bar – margaret river

Firstly I apologize….there are no sufficient pictorial aides with this review.

Now before you tut at me… let me explain….

MY parents were with me…and no, not in the nerdy ‘my parents didn’t let me way’……the emphasis on ‘my’ was entirely deliberate.

It’s very difficult to explain my parents without recanting my the full oddities of my childhood. Some would say they are one of a kind, I prefer to align myself with the Munster Family….a scenario in which I am Marilyn Munster and my parents are Herman and Lily (see below).

Marilyn (Me)


Herman and Lily (Them)


I like to think when the Big Man up above was handing out ‘Politically Correctness’ and ‘Common Etiquette’, both my parents were not only absent but unaware of their existence. They complain loudly if the food is not up to scratch and take worrying amounts of pleasure in making fun of the waitstaff (lord forbid we are assigned a waiter with any form of discernible feature eg. your larger man or woman….or worse still…a foreigner). Now before cries of racism get thrown out can I just clarify that they are tiny..and asian… and alarmingly loud.

Now what happens in most dining situations is one of 2 scenarios.

Situation 1

When we are faced with your lower IQ or snooty waiter (more often than not they are mutually exclusive), jokes re: the fillet steak actually being ‘dog meat’ fall on very flat ears…insert same for jokes re: weight of said waiter or ethnicity. What then happens is I manage to instantly transform to a shade of red not normally achievable in someone of tanned complexion and madly start looking for the imaginary ‘eject’ button (hoping by some miraculous chance it would lead to a trapdoor I could fall through). More often than not, I resort to making frequent ‘bathroom’ trips to distance myself from the situation and resign myself to the fact that there is a 99% chance I will receive some form of foreign bodily fluid from our waiter in my meal for the evening.

Situation 2

Some waiters will actually find my parents highly amusing. Believe you me, this is a phenomenon that still surprises me despite my 24 years of experience of dining with the offending party. When this occurs, we are instantly elevated to VIP dining status and freebies are plied our way. More often than not, my parents will take this ‘rapport’ to the next level and actually befriend the said waiter. It will then not be uncommon to find them situated at the next family dinner.

So finally back to Must….and why I could not take any photos. Being a dining establishment of a fairly ‘fine’ nature, I braced myself for the worst. Being thoroughly preoccupied with the nervous twitch I normally reserve for dining in such venues with my parents, I completely forgot to whip out the camera.

Thankfully, my fears were unwarranted. The waitress assigned to our table was a thorough hospitality professional and actually said she found my parents (and I quote) ‘a hoot and the highlight of my night so far’. The service was impeccable, the wine unsurprisingly amazing and the food to die for.

For starters we ordered a Charcuterie plate to share. This is their specialty that is also served at the other Must venue in Mt Lawley. I believe the contents do not change that often but why should they when each item is a 5 star effort. The plate consisted that night of pork rillettes, a pork terrine with mango chutney (in a pastry crust) and their signature olive tapenade. The rillete was of a perfect consistency with the creamy pork flakes melting lusciously away with each bite. The terrine was also provided a lovely contrast of flavours between the salty cold pork and the sweet and tangy mango chutney.

All of this was accompanied by their beautiful baguette baked in house and some to-die-for imported french butter. Now, whoever claimed french women don’t get fat is full of BS. As far as I’m concerned, if I was a Parisienne I would be in danger of surviving solely on a diet of french butter and fresh baguettes. Yes I would probably die of heart failure at age 30 but oh what a glorious 30 years they would be……

For my main I opted for an entree after attempting to live out the above fantasy (they are almost too obliging with their refills of the baguette basket). My dish of Seared Scallops with Jamon Crumble was out of this world. The jamon was finely diced and fried to a crisp so that it popped in your mouth like miniature morsels of (extremely expensive) crackle. The pairing with the very finely diced salsa-like topping of avocado, tomato and herb on top of the medium rare scallop was a match made in culinary heaven…..

The boys (S and Papa Munster) shared a serving of their special Aged Butterfield Beef. The meat is from a nearby farm and is aged in-house. In fact, there is a rather impressive display of their aging meat in a refrigerated glass section just in front of the kitchen (possibly not the same effect for vegetarians..). They ordered the Beef Rib Eye, which at 500g was noted on the menu as ‘suitable for 2 to share’. It came plainly grilled but with a quaint side tray of condiments; a choice of bernaise or peppercorn sauce, french mustard, onion cabernet jam and salsa verde. Although it looked a bit bland as there were no accompanying vegetables, the meat was cooked perfectly and the sauces delicious. The only complaint was from Papa Munster who said he would prefer if the steak did not come pre-cut into slices. That said, he would probably prefer to chew his meat off the cow itself if it was at all possible.

Mama Munster ordered the daily special which was a Roquefort Souffle and Rocket Salad and it lived up to all expectations. It was beautifully light and the tanginess of the roquefort came through nicely without being too overpowering.

All in all, a wonderfully successful night with exceptional service and high quality food.

4 out of 5 Golden Spoons

$$$$ (Beef Rib Eye for 2 is only $48 though other mains were at the $40 and above mark)

PS: The next time we went back, the Manager expressed how much our previous waitress appreciated my parents ‘hilarity’. A complimentary duck parfait was sent our way….. the mind boggles.

Must Margaret River

107 Bussell Hwy

Margaret River WA 6285

T: 08 9758 8877

W: http://www.must.com.au

Must Margaret River on Urbanspoon

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  1. […] and did not have the smooth creamy paste consistency of the delectable pork rilletes at Must Wine Bar (how it should really be). Large bits of cold chicken chunks and skin in semi solidified […]

  2. […] the disastrous birthday lunch with Lily Munster at The Garden, we decided to throw caution (and wallets) to the wind…and splurge out on the […]

  3. […] it was another dinner night with my parents, the Munsters, and boy do they love a good curry. We’d heard about Gogo’s notoriety previously […]



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